Every zipped handbag you have ever owned descends, in a sense, from one bag: the Hermès Bolide. At our shop in Fukuoka we handle a lot of beautiful bags, but few carry a piece of design history this significant. Here is the story, and a practical guide to buying one today.
1923: A Zipper Meets a Handbag
In the early 20th century, Émile-Maurice Hermès encountered the newly developed zipper fastener in North America and secured rights to use it in France. In 1923, Hermès applied it to a rounded, structured travel bag, widely recognized as the first handbag ever fitted with a zipper. Originally created with motoring in mind, so belongings would not fly out of an open car, the design was later named the Bolide, from the French word for a speeding object. A century later, the silhouette is still in production, essentially unchanged: a curved dome top, a zip that traces the arc, twin handles, and on many versions a detachable shoulder strap.
Sizes and How They Wear
- Bolide 27: the compact size, an elegant crossbody-capable day bag.
- Bolide 31: the classic everyday size, roomy without bulk; the one we recommend most often.
- Bolide 35 and larger: genuine travel companions, in the spirit of the 1923 original.
- Mini and Vintage variations: older and smaller versions surface regularly in Japan's secondhand market and have real collector charm.
An Affordable Entry: The Canvas Pouch Line
Not ready for a full leather Bolide? Hermès has long made zip pouches and cases in the same rounded Bolide spirit, in cotton canvas with leather trim. These pieces carry the same design DNA at a small fraction of the price and make wonderful travel organizers or clutches. They are one of our favorite recommendations for a first Hermès purchase, and small accessories like these sometimes appear in our under $500 collection.
What to Check on a Pre-Owned Bolide
- The zipper: fitting, given the history. It should glide smoothly along the entire curve.
- Corners and base: structured bags show wear here first.
- Handles and strap: look for even color and solid stitching.
- Stamps and hardware: details our authentication team examines closely on every piece.
How We Keep You Safe
All of our Hermès pieces are sourced at licensed Japanese dealer auctions under Japan's Kobutsusho secondhand dealer law, then pass our in-house 7-point authentication before listing. We photograph every flaw, so the bag on your doorstep matches the bag on your screen, and everything is backed by our full-refund authenticity guarantee. Shipping from Japan to the US takes just 2 to 5 days.
Own a Piece of Design History
Pre-owned Bolides typically cost well below comparable new Hermès bags, and their understated shape has quietly gained appreciation as quiet luxury has grown. Browse our current Hermès collection to see what is in stock, or read our story to learn how a small family shop in Fukuoka came to send century-old design icons across the Pacific.